French-Armenian Designer Véronique Nichanian on Shaping the World of Menswear
Véronique Nichanian, the artistic director of Hermès Men’s Universe, joined the French luxury brand as a designer of ready-to-wear menswear in 1988.
Before Hermès, she worked for 12 years with Italian fashion designer Nino Cerruti, eventually co-leading the men’s collections, after graduating from the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne in 1976.
She is one of the few women who design menswear collections and emphasizes color, the blend of traditional and innovative materials, and meticulous detailing — the hallmarks of Hermès’ understated elegance.
On her remarkable career, and working in the world of menswear, the designer discussed several topic and trends related to the men’s fashion.
Véronique explained about her idea of the perfect style of the man: “I don’t conform to fixed ideals of masculinity; I believe men should express their individuality through their style. My design process isn’t about creating a fixed look; I focus on crafting each item as a distinctive piece.
I begin by designing each item — whether pants, a jacket, or a sweater — before carefully combining them. Each piece is designed to stand on its own, allowing for versatility and personal expression. When curating fashion shows, I choose pieces as one would from their own wardrobe, emphasizing a natural and authentic approach to dressing.”
She added: “I’d like more people to realize that we’re not just making clothes — we’re making clothes that are meant to last. I’m very clear about where I’m headed, and I strive to make fashion more exciting for men each season by proposing new fabric combinations and introducing new materials. Not necessarily new shapes, because I love simple shapes that deserve reinterpretation.
You need to touch the fabrics and wear the clothes to notice all the details. I know how to design a sharp suit, but the challenge lies in defining a casual yet elegant style. I don’t want to be classic or traditional, nor do I want to follow trends. I want to stand at the edge of modernity.”
In a way, Nichanian has accomplished for Hermès what the brand itself set out to do. When Hermès appointed her to lead the menswear division in 1988, the house was undergoing reinvention under Jean-Louis Dumas, the grandson of founder Thierry Hermès, and was far from the ambitious powerhouse it is today.
Nichanian not only laid the foundations of Hermès menswear, but can also rightly claim to have built the modern men’s clothing line stone by stone — beginning in an era before GPS, Pretty Woman, and the World Wide Web.
