A magical trip to Armenia’s ancient Etchmiadzin Cathedral

· December 4, 2024

Thought to be the oldest cathedral in the world, the space has recently reopened to visitors

By Eloise Stark
Broadview

Shining like a disco ball in her glittery dress, a little girl crosses herself and kneels to kiss a Bible resting on a wooden platform in the nave. It slides backward with a loud creak, and her mother hastily puts it back in place before bowing down herself. As she rises, her eyes lift to the ornately decorated ceiling above. The walls and domes are adorned with intricate designs reminiscent of Armenian carpets, blending floral and geometric patterns with images of saints and angels. “I have waited years for Etchmiadzin Mother Cathedral to reopen,” says the mother, Roza Mkrtchyan. “It feels like seeing a friend I haven’t met in a long time.”

Closed for renovations since 2018, the cathedral finally reopened on Sept. 29. Mkrtchyan lives in Yerevan, Armenia’s capital, but she often makes the 20-kilometre journey to Etchmiadzin Cathedral in the small city of Vagharshapat, also known as Etchmiadzin. The cathedral finally reopened on Sept. 29. The public can once again access a place considered by many to be not only the spiritual heart of the Armenian Apostolic Church but also the oldest cathedral in the world, dating back to the early 4th century—just after Armenia became the first country to officially adopt Christianity as its state religion in 301 AD.

The cathedral is smaller than those found in Western Europe but still beautiful. Its central dome is surrounded by a cluster of carved stone turrets, and the entire edifice glows golden in the sunlight. A lone scaffold against one corner is the only visible reminder of the past six years of restoration.

Renovations encompassed everything from the building’s foundations to the cross atop its 34-metre-high dome. The most striking transformation is the interior frescoes, once darkened by soot from church candles. Today, they’ve been restored to their former glory, covering the cathedral’s walls with gold and vibrant colors. The restoration team told local reporters they had “given the ancient church life for centuries to come.”

A worshipper kneels in reverence at the Etchmiadzin Cathedral in Vagharshapat, Armenia. (Photo: Eloise Stark)

The reopening seems to have rekindled a deep sense of religion and community. “We are all happy to have our cathedral back,” says Aram Petrossian, who lives nearby. “This is where we see all our neighbors—and tourists, too.” Since its reopening, the cathedral has been bustling with visitors. “On weekends, during the liturgies, the entire place is full. People have to kneel outside to pray!”

With the Christmas season beginning, this business is expected to continue. According to orthodox tradition, Christmas will be celebrated from the evening of Jan. 5, with evening liturgies, followed by a Feast of the Nativity celebration on Jan. 6, also known as Epiphany.

Even on a rainy Monday afternoon at the end of November, the church is filled with people. Teenagers take selfies against the vivid frescoes. Children run around and peer through the glass floor, which reveals glimpses of the 1,700-year-old foundations. Well-dressed couples pop in for a prayer before heading out to dinner. In one corner, two women are hugging. One wipes her eyes with a tissue. “The last time I was here was for my husband’s funeral,” she tells me. “It looks so beautiful now—like it’s brand new.” As they leave, the two women rest their foreheads against the cathedral’s outer wall in silent prayer.

The complex surrounding Etchmiadzin Cathedral is often referred to as the Armenian Vatican. It is home to the Catholicos of All Armenians, the spiritual leader of the Armenian Apostolic Church. A small museum houses holy relics — including what is said to be a fragment of Noah’s Ark and the Holy Lance, a spearhead used to pierce the side of Jesus while he was nailed to the cross (although other European cities make similar claims about possessing the lance). Yet, despite its religious credentials, the area feels more like a park or a town square, where everyone comes together and feels at home.

As the bell tower rings out five serene chimes, priests in long black robes rush through the thick wooden doors for the evening liturgy. After 17 centuries, this ancient cathedral is still the beating heart of this community.