Ancient Armenian delicacy harees finds popularity in city’s iftar offerings

Anjali Jhangiani, timesofindia@indiatimes.com
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Pune: During Ramzan, the aromatic essence of hareeswafts through a busy lane in Kausarbaug, where eager patrons queue up for this ancient delicacy.
This simple yet nourishing porridge of wheat and meat traces its origin back to ancient Armenia. It soon became a staple across the Middle East. As it made its way to India, it underwent a local transformation — the Mappila community of Kerala embraced it as hareesa, while Hyderabadi cooks added their own unique flair, creating the rich and flavourful haleem.
Yet, in Pune, the essence of harees remains unchanged — a no-frills recipe providing satiation and strength through its blend of proteins and carbs.
On most Fridays, customers line up for a piping hot bowl of this delicacy at a humble stall near Kausarbaug Masjid. The stall is run by civil engineer-turned-food vendor Salahuddin Shaikh, who sells only this one dish.
“I was introduced to this dish in Hyderabad, where my wife is from. We used to visit her family for functions and festivals where this dish was served. Though it didn’t look special, it tasted fantastic. My wife and brother-in-law run a catering business; she learnt how to make the dish, and we started selling it in Pune,” said Shaikh.
Shaikh began his harees business in the city five years ago, initially selling about 10 boxes per day. Now, 150 boxes sell out in minutes at his stall. “During Ramzan, the demand is high, so we set up our stall every day. During the rest of the year, we we sell it on Fridays after namaz-e-Juma,” he added.
The main difference between the original harees and the popular haleem is the ratio of wheat to meat. Harees has 80% meat, making the umami denser than haleem, which has a 50-50 ratio due to the added lentils and other ingredients. The texture of harees is slightly similar to that of porridge, while haleem is smoother and tilts toward a paste-like consistency.
As the dish takes time, effort, and precision to prepare, many home chefs who have the skills to make harees only do so on an order basis. “It is tedious. We use a high-quality variety of wheat called Khandela ghav, known for its superior texture and rich, nutty flavour,” said Tasneem Lokhandwala, who runs a catering business in Camp.
The wheat has to be soaked overnight, then cooked in a clay or copper pot on hot coal or a slow flame for four hours before the meat is added and cooked again for another hour or two. “It requires occasional stirring with a special wooden spoon that doubles up as a smasher. We add a hint of garam masala, a little bit of desiccated coconut for flavour, and top it with fresh mint, fried onions, and a dollop of ghee while serving,” she added.
“It cannot be made in small quantities. We get big orders for it on special days such as the 40th day after Muharram and the days that follow, and also during Ramzan,” Lokhandwala said.
Farah Irani, a homemaker from Kondhwa, often makes this dish during winters.
“It is my comfort food, and healthy and tasty. We often eat it during Sehri as well since it is easy to digest and gives you strength to fast for the whole day,” said Irani, who uses her trusted pressure cooker to save time preparing the recipe instead of following traditional methods.