The ruins of the 7th-century Zvartnots Cathedral Getty Images

Yerevan is the ideal counterpoint to the tourist-filled cities of western Europe. Landlocked and nestled deep in the Caucasus, the Armenian capital has a unique air that’s quietly addictive. Rugged Soviet-era architecture mingles with brutalist tenement blocks, and hearty meals are accompanied by potent mulberry oghi (moonshine) and incredibly sweet pomegranate wine.

This is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and there are ancient temples just a short drive from the city center. Mystical Mount Ararat watches over the city and is said to be the resting place of Noah’s Ark; the attention-grabbing peak appearing to float above the horizon on clear days, creating a spectacular display.

The Cascade complex features intricate architectural designs

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48 hours in Yerevan — at a glance

Day one

• Morning: Cascade complex
• Eat at: Aperitivo Italian Trattoria
• Afternoon: Self-guided art trail
• Drink at: Lumen Coffee 1936
• Evening: Armenian Market
• Dinner: Dolmama

Day two

• Morning: Armenian Genocide Memorial Complex and Museum
• Eat at: Tun Lahmajo
• Afternoon: Zvartnots Cathedral
• Drink at: Bar Phoenix
• Evening: Blue Mosque
• Dinner: Lavash

Yerevan with Mount Ararat in the distance

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What to see and do

• Three rotund Botero sculptures sit alongside works by the British artists Lynn Chadwick and Barry Flanagan at the foot of Yerevan’s futuristic-looking Cascade arts center (free). Connecting the city’s center with Victory Park, the 572-step climb passes the Cafesjian Center for the Arts (free; cmf.am), filled with contemporary Armenian art and five sprawling terraces. From the top, after admiring Mount Ararat and taking in views of the city, turn right through Lovers’ Alley in Victory Park to reach Mother Armenia, a 22 meters hammered-copper female personification of the country and a symbol of peace and strength.

• Admire some of the city’s large-scale artworks on a walk beginning at 36 Moskovyan Street, with a beautiful mosaic interpretation of the 1923 painting, My Yard, by the Armenian artist Martiros Saryan. Not far away, on the side of the Academy of Fine Arts building, a monochromatic mural inspired by marble sculptures deserves a detour, as does the Eternal Alphabet Wall, where the 38 letters of the Armenian alphabet are showcased in all their glory, carved ornately from metal.

• A short walk from Zoravar Andranik metro station, the Armenian Market (sometimes called the Tashir Market) is where Yerevanis congregate, picking up huge bunches of milky green grapes plucked straight from the vine, whole dried figs, and swathes of pancake-flat lavash bread. It’s the ideal place to get an insight into local life, or to pick up a few souvenirs; the neatly arranged pre-packed dried fruit and nut plates are a good option.

• Not an easy visit, but essential in understanding Armenia’s past, the Armenian Genocide Memorial complex and museum recounts the horrors that took place against the Armenian people in 1915 and 1916. Through moving first-person accounts, photographs and film, the museum pays tribute to the million or more citizens who were forcibly displaced, murdered, or starved during the period (donations welcome; genocide-museum.am). It’s roughly two miles from the city center, so a taxi (about £1.50) is the best option.

• Hop in a marshrutka minibus (about 70p each way) or take a cab (about £14 return) to Zvartnots Cathedral, roughly 50 minutes’ drive out of town (entry £2). The remains of this 7th-century temple give a clue to its scale and grandeur, including the colossal stone arches that frame distant Mount Ararat perfectly. Take time to seek out fallen hand-carved column heads adorned with eagles that can now be seen lying on the ground.

As the sun sets, the azure, green and yellow colors of Yerevan’s Blue Mosque become even more ethereal as they glimmer in the lowering sun. Dating from 1765 and surrounded by apricot trees and stubby rose bushes, it remains the only active mosque in the entire country. Step inside to view the small library that not only houses historic texts and photographs of the building from over the years, but a few Iranian paintings as well (free).

The Armenian Genocide Memorial complex recounts the horrors that took place against the Armenian people in 1915 and 1916

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Where to eat and drink

Aperitivo Italian Trattoria

With a cosy interior that’s perfect for long winter brunches and a relaxing terrace on which to enjoy Italian-inspired bites during summer months, this welcoming spot takes a prime position close to the Cascade complex. The Caprese omelette and cloud-light tiramisu pancakes are both sound choices before or after the Cascade climb (mains from £4; @aperitivo_italian_yvn).

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Lumen Coffee 1936 serves excellent coffees and cocktails

Lumen Coffee 1936

Based in one of the city’s most beautiful buildings, Lumen Coffee 1936 serves excellent speciality coffees and coffee-based cocktails. Dating from 1936, the building was previously a tobacco shop and a bookstore, before being transformed into its present iteration, with murals and wood carvings by the Armenian master Hovhannes Naghashyan (drinks from £2; @lumen.coffee.1936).

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Dolmama

The dish to order at this celeb-loved haunt (famous diners include Kim Kardashian, Michael Caine and Paulo Coelho) is dolma — small parcels of minced meat and rice wrapped in vine leaves. Cooked in oil and butter, there are two variations on offer here: the first uses ground beef and lamb, while the second is an elevated version using sirloin steak. Pair with a bottle of pomegranate semisweet, a traditional drink of red wine mixed with pomegranate juice (mains from £13; dolmama.am).

Lahmajo at Tun Lahmajo

LYDIA SWINSCOE

Tun Lahmajo

Retro landline phones, ageing black and white photographs and relics of yesteryear line the walls of this rustic local eatery that’s the place to visit for authentic lahmajo. An Armenian staple, the dish is akin to an extremely thin pizza topped with spiced minced meat, herbs and, occasionally, local cheese. Equally good is the fragrant meatball soup topped with an abundance of fresh herbs — and don’t forget to order a shot of locally made mulberry oghi, which arrives with a complementary bright green pickle (mains from £3; @tunlahmajo.official).

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Bar Phoenix

A mosaic of a phoenix rising under a burning sun commands attention behind the bar of this low-lit cocktail joint, where Ararat Armenian brandy is championed in every sip. Drinks feature locally loved fruits and herbs such as quince, tarragon, rhubarb and green plum, which is the star of the show in the Azenor cocktail — a pale yellow, fragrant, marshmallowy concoction that’s far too easy to drink. There’s also a cute brandy shop for stocking up on gifts to take home (cocktails from £6; @bar.phnx).

Lavash

Round off the day at Lavash, an upmarket Armenian restaurant just a couple of blocks away from the foot of the Cascade complex. For a complete immersion into the wonders of Armenian cooking, order tapas style, with highlights including ghapama (meat and rice stuffed pumpkin), charred aubergine with tarragon sauce, and khurjin, a bread parcel filled with lamb and inspired by shepherds (mains from £6; @lavash.restaurant).

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Where to stay

Armenia Marriott Hotel Yerevan

The lobby bar at Armenia Marriott Hotel Yerevan has recently been refurbished

In the heart of the city
The Marriott’s bar and lobby have recently emerged from a much-needed renovation, and now have a Pinterest-style aesthetic that’s all plush soft pink and mint green bar stools as well as plenty of leafy foliage. Bedrooms are spacious, affordable and comfortable and the hotel sits slap bang in Republic Square, one of the best locations for visiting the most of the city’s sights on foot. The hotel’s compact outdoor pool provides welcome relief throughout summer months (room-only doubles from £88; marriott.com).

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The Dvin

Something for everyone
It’s hard to miss this unapologetic sprawl of a hotel, with its vast arched entranceway and reflective glass front. Inside, an art deco theme unfurls with a swirling bright white spiral staircase at its centre. Finished with gold accents and quirky bright orange cushions adorned with ponies, bedrooms are minimalist but inviting, while the full rooftop tennis court and workout zone will appeal to active types. A spa is in the works; in the meantime, the lengthy infinity pool flanked by daybeds is the ideal place to unwind (room-only doubles from £206; 7visionshotels.com).

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The Alexander

The Alexander’s restaurant terrace has great views of Mount Ararat

MATTHEW SHAW

The one with the best views
With an imposing black façade on Abovyan Street, just across the road from the restaurant Dolmama, the Alexander is home to 114 plush bedrooms decked out in gold, cream and taupe. Added interest comes in the form of gleaming glass vases holding perfect orchids, and rose gold geometric wall flourishes. The unfussy yet welcoming spa has a wood sauna and swimming pool, but the true jewel in the hotel’s crown is its restaurant terrace, from where dreamy Mount Ararat takes centre stage (room-only doubles from £269; marriott.com).

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Getting there and around

Lufthansa flies from Heathrow in about seven hours with a layover in Frankfurt; Zvartnots International Airport is about 30 minutes’ drive from the city centre. Taxis cost about £6 and can be picked up at the arrivals hall or through the app Yandex Go.

Yerevan is extremely walkable, but the Karen Demirchyan Yerevan Subway is a single-line metro that zips from Garegin Nzhdeh Square to Baregamutyun and is worth taking for the experience alone. Taxis or marshrutkas are the ideal option when heading to sights outside the city. Take cash for both.

Visit responsibly

Outside the capital, dense forest-covered mountains ensure gorgeous hiking opportunities that are worth extending a trip for. Ensure your money goes to the source by hiring a guide or tour directly.

Lydia Swinscoe travelled independently.