One Of Los Angeles’ Best Foodie Neighborhoods Is A Vibrant Hub Of Armenian Bites, Culture, And Community
By Anahid Akkam
Islands.com
Is there a bigger melting pot in the world than the U.S.? Some of the best Chinatowns across America are found in New York, Massachusetts, and, naturally, Los Angeles. And if the U.S. is a melting pot, L.A. is where all the sizzle is. People flock to this city from Mexico, Costa Rica, Argentina, Cuba, and for those who’ve been to Glendale — a large population of Armenians. While the tiny Caucasian nation’s dizzying mountain ranges and ancient sites are a couple of flights away from Los Angeles, residents can always count on Little Armenia to feel at home. This underrated neighborhood is a foodie paradise –– one you must visit on an empty stomach because no one is leaving the table without going for seconds.
Sandwiched between Hollywood Boulevard and Santa Monica Boulevard, Little Armenia is full of delicious and inviting eateries. But the way many Armenians ended up in the neighborhood isn’t exactly a happy story. In 1915, 1.5 million Armenians suffered a genocide at the hands of the Ottoman Empire, which some consider to be one of the first genocides of the 20th century alongside Namibia. Whoever survived the death marches in the Syrian desert had to establish their lives from scratch. Many Armenians had to resettle in the Middle East, while others left for the U.S. in search of better opportunities. That’s how Little Armenia came to be.
Armenians brought two things to the U.S.: good food and warm hospitality. You’ll find exactly that in Little Armenia, with a sprinkle of good, old-fashioned unsolicited marriage advice from the older generation. Armenians are welcoming and practice a collectivist culture — it takes a village to do everything. And they will tell you that you need to learn how to cook before getting married.
Indulge in basturma sandwiches and manti in Little Armenia
As you drive down Prospect Avenue and finally see Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House (L.A.’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site), you’ll know you’ve arrived in Little Armenia. A few blocks down from the Hollyhock House is your first stop: Carousel Restaurant. Founded by Lebanese Armenians, Carousel Restaurant perfectly embodies the diaspora of cuisine that Western Armenians adore. Ordering here is an experience — should you get the yogurt kebab, veal liver sauté, cheesy soujuk, or spinach fatayer? The answer is all of the above and manti, a mouthwatering comfort meal drenched in tomato broth and topped with yogurt.
More savory bites await at Sahag’s Basturma Sandwich Shop. Despite being a small deli, the taste of basturma is a rollercoaster of flavors — it’s an air-dried cured beef best paired with pickles. Trust Sahag to prepare the most appetizing basturma sandwich. No need for many ingredients because the beef itself holds all the smack. Some people prefer the che keofte, an Armenian-style beef tartare made with bulgur. If you thought this shop was too off-the-grid for your taste, you might change your mind knowing that Anthony Bourdain had a meal here.
Mush Bakery is a top choice for meaty and cheesy boreks, but the must-try here is the jengal bread — lavash flatbread stuffed with dozens of herbs. Satisfy your sweet tooth and get the tahini bread. The phrase, “I’m full,” simply doesn’t exist in the Armenian vocabulary, and to honor that statement, stop by Sasoun Bakery and get the lahmajun and zaatar manoushe. Some might argue that these dishes aren’t Armenian. However, you can argue that Armenians fused their cuisine with Middle Eastern flavors as a result of their country’s tumultuous past. Now, many households embrace these meals as a part of their daily menu.
The Armenian identity thrives in this L.A. neighborhood
Christianity plays a huge role in the Armenian community — it was the first nation to accept it as its official religion in 301 A.D. Therefore, it’s only respectful to light a candle at St. Garabed Armenian Apostolic Church when you’re there. Even if you’re not religious, simply admire the stained glass and take in the silence before exploring more of the neighborhood. Walking down Hollywood Boulevard, you’ll spot the Armenian Genocide Memorial Square at the intersection with Western Avenue. The square was renamed on the 100th anniversary of the Armenian Genocide in 2015 to honor those who lost their lives and the struggle for recognition. Every year, on April 24, people gather in this neighborhood to commemorate Armenian Genocide Remembrance Day and call for justice with a march.
For one last feast, book a table at Marouch Restaurant, a Lebanese-Armenian establishment with the best offerings in Little Armenia. Each item on the menu is a passed-down recipe, so you know the food is going to hit the spot. The shish taouk is tender, the hummus is creamy, and the kebab is seasoned to perfection. Don’t leave without having baklava for dessert as you reminisce about the summer you were sipping your way through the cocktail culture of Yerevan. That is, unless you want to try the wraps at Falafel Arax — no judgment here.
